Anegada … “The Drowned Island”

A huge contrast to the other Islands of the Caribbean and Virgin Islands (al very mountainous due to their origin from volcanic formation) … Anegada (the most northern BVI islands) is a flat coral and limestone island and you could not spot it from miles away like all the others of the BVI! The first site of it was a few pine and palm trees against the blue horizon … surrounded with blinding white beaches and the most beautiful turquoise water!

Anegada from a distance
Anegada from a distance

It was hard to stop taking pictures … any which way you point your lens provides just another postcard picture of blues and contrasting white with cute little colourful restaurants skirting the beach of the only anchorage at the island.
We were glad we came in early (remember the Captain believes in being their …wherever that is…first!) to pick a prime spot mooring right in front of Lobster Trap Restaurant and also while the sun was shining to show up the reef patches that you have to negotiate coming into the bay.
All the restaurants had crayfish on the menu and we could see why … they each have a “trap” full of crayfish hanging off their dinghy dock… ready to be cooked for the night’s guests… And that is what we had! Conch chowder for a starter (to die for!! Best ever!) and a seafood platter with beautiful fresh crayfish (for a change not over cooked!) fish and prawns and a great fresh salad! By far the best food we had in the whole of the Caribbean!! …and the setting on the water with our boat right in front of us was the cherry!
Crayfish traps in front of the restaurants

We rented a little Chinese car – a partially retired “Great Wall klio” in apple green!) (…and I mean little!…The Captain had to fold just about double to get into the driver’s seat! ). By the way it is a left hand drive so we assumed that we need to drive on the right side of the road … like the US… thank goodness there were hardly any traffic – about 15 min later we saw a scooter driving on the left hand side – but being a gravel road we thought he might be dodging potholes? We pulled in next to him to ask him and then realised that we were driving on the wrong side of the road!
Our little green car for the day
The little green Chinaman has a few problems due to neglect….a driver’s window that cannot stay up, rusted windscreen wipers, several parts of the body panels detaching …they are waiting for the clips to fix it (clips? Sounds like a Lego car …just not as strong!) and a very sick, noisy CV joint…no wonder … the main roads were pretty hard on mine too! It was going – and that is all that matters … and the aircon works too!…so we had fun driving around at the speed limit of 30km/h to see the other great beaches of this barely 11km long and very narrow island.
The main “town area “is called The Settlement (funny!) … the houses around there reminds me of the Namibian west coast about 20 years ago (Vlotska Bargain / Henties Bay) … the vegetation even looks like the west coast of South African around Paternoster … The beaches are stunningly pretty…long clean white beaches with not a sole in site… the snorkelling was great!! With massive staghorn, fan and brain coral around! At places you could see that no regulations and red tape is sometimes needed … especially where houses were built too close to the water line!
Loblolly Beach

We had to go to Loblolly Beach to snorkel … what a cute name …and it lived up to that cute name too! It is just beautiful! Sky Blue cemented pathways take you to the restaurant, little bar and to the little souvenir shop (where the young girl was singing along her Spanish songs that was playing on a CD player!..Haha…she did not miss a beat unless you asked her something – she will stop for a moment to attend to you (with hardly any English vocabulary!) and then as if nothing has interrupted her…will just enthusiastically continue her singing!)
The snorkelling was great! We have encountered a few really big barracudas… scary things to see meeting eye to eye if they are about my length! The one kept following us … just about till we get into 3 feet water on our way out! A $3 shower just did it for us before having a refreshing beer at the beautiful and very character full little pub the size of a big umbrella! What matters was that it had cold drinks and whatever you ask for , they had it right there
The next beaches were as pretty – we had our picnic on “Flash of Beauty beach” in nice wooden deck chairs in the shades of a large “afdakkie” (a umbrella shaped structure with a corrugated iron roof) … with a cool breeze on our backs and each a cold beer (But Light! Hmm!) … the white beach and blue waters made the picture just perfect! A quick powernap before continuing on to Cow Wreck Beach and then to Flamingo Lagoon to see where the 100-200 flamingos are lurking.. we spotted about 9 of them … they might have been out on an excursion themselves… beautiful deep orange-pink flamingos – a pity we did not see the masses!
That evening we had the blue underwater lights on and had a school of Tarpon (seriously big ones) circling the lights as if they are getting ready to attack! We felt it is unfair to the little fish to expose them like that and turned it of…well the lights attract hundreds of glow-worms and it was just magic to see their little mating display (or that is what we figured it is) .. . such a small little creature – only maybe 1cm long ? – can produce such a big glowing florescent green light …and for an very long time too!! They produce a substance that is causing a cloud swirling around them … got a friend to dive into the circle and then their lights went off… privacy I guess? Ha! The sea is such a wonderful creation! It will never cease to amaze and entertain me!
The next day was departure day (that normally happens early morning)…. But the Captain had an urge for Bone Fishing … and so he left at 9am with Danny’s Bone fishing boat and left me to get the boat ready to take on the waters as soon as he is back at 3pm! I did the cleaning the securing of all items but getting the dinghy out is still a mission I am pushing back … that is a hard one-man job! I hope he is in a great mood with lots of fish and would excuse that one job that I have left for him to help me with. We need to get to an island with proper internet connections before 6pm tonight …he has a teleconference to attend… and I will have a quiet drink ashore while he is attending his very much misplaced meeting for the location/time ! How rude of him to still think about business in settings like this!
The teleconference was another challenge…. With no reception good enough to Skype he had to take the dinghy across open seas to the Scrub Island Marina to do so and I was stranded with no money or company (but a drink in hand at least) for about an hour! It was (according to him) worth the effort and the Marina impressed him so much that we will have to go in there at some stage – amongst the super yachts – for at least one night to see what it’s like and to use the magic pool for free and superfast Internet!

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