The wonderful sights along the Amalfi Coast:
The first thing Johann said as we were leaving Capri, was to get all the camera batteries charged and be ready for the most beautiful sight you have seen for a long time! I had no Idea what to expect, but it must be something special! Johann is always the one to tell me to slow down with all the snaps, because the editing of the hundreds of pictures that I take is always a tedious and difficult task. I never know what to delete and what not- it all is part of my memories and everyone of them has its own special message in my mind. Well, he was not wrong! I ended up with over 600 pictures at the end of the Amalfi coast!
The beautiful towns of Positano and Amalfi popped up and took my breath away!(There were many more lovely little places in between, before and after them, but these two were just special!) Johann has a very soft spot for Positano. He has travelled through the town before with a friend and as a teenager had a prescribed reading book at school called “Die Swaaltjies van Positano” (The Swallows of Positano) by Chris Barnard, that gives this picturesque settlement character and personality in his mind. It is about the story of the swallows that wants to return every year in May to the same place (an overhanging roof of a beautiful building on the cliffs of the hill) to spend their summer over-looking the bay of Poitano. I am writing this part with a lot of dearness and almost become a bit emotional in doing so. It is great that we are treasuring wonderful memories and moments from our pasts like this. It suddenly take me back to the little swallow that was lost that we accommodated on the boat for an overnight stay when we crossed the Adriatic sea.
I could not imagine more picture perfect places than Positano and Amalfi – They are both spectacularly set out at the food of the hills with the typical Italian style old buildings one after the other snuggling up to each other to form a colourful display of a romantic medieval town with its distinctive churches towering right in the middle of the town.
Amalfi used to be a prosperous trading town already in the 6th century AD (so, it is really very old) with very well maintained old buildings and a lovely port and beach welcoming sunbathers from all over the world. We just did not have the time to go in and stay for a day … another one for our “next time list”.
One after the other little town around every point we passed was just a too lovely for words! A beautiful coastline! I spent most of the time sitting with my elbows rested on my knees looking through a pair of binoculars, absorbing the scenes of lovely dwellings passing by like a movie without characters – wondering how wonderful and peaceful it must be to actually live there … who knows, it has become a small world after all – maybe one day? But then again – the grass is always greener on the other side!
The one unfortunately unforgettable not so spectacular sight was the condition of the sea water as soon as we enter the Amalfi coastal area. Rubbish and clearly ablution contents were floating all around us. It was disgusting and at times difficult to enjoy the beauty in front of us, with very identifiable disgusting objects floating by! They must just discharge all toilet rubbish in the sea! (We were later told that the coastline of Croatia unfortunately ended up with all the Italian crap that washes out on the shores there!)
Salerno was our stop at the end of the Amalfi Coast. A lovely old town where we again had to deal with the Mafia-like style of operations when we entered the marina. There was no way you will touch any of their mooring lines! (Which we usually do do) – Pietro, the “ormegiatore” (local marine/boat mafia) jumped on board (shoes and all! – very much a no-no for this boat and this Captain!) and moored the boat HIS way with HIS lines. Johann told the guy on the dock that he wanted to secure the boat with a springer (another cross rope to keep the position) and his sidekick immediately changed our minds with a big voice: “with MY rope!” Well well well … we stood back and let them trot with dirty shoes all over the white deck until they happily left us behind, well secured. Johann made a comment about the tricky passarel exit, that he (Pietro) has eaten enough pasta to let it settled on the dock to walk off without a problem! I held my breath, thinking it is a bit bolt talking to this guy, but basically telling him he is a sturdy pastas gobbler??? … Ha!! To my relieve Pietro found the remark very funny and we were friends from that moment onwards! They were very helpful to help us finding our way around town.
Salerno is a lovely town with a great beach! The old buildings are very well restored and the walk around town gained me 2 pair of wonderful Italian leather shoes! Can you believe Johann insisted I buy them there and then!! You got to love this guy! 🙂
Overall it was a great stop before our next long stretch across the Ionian sea to the volcanic islands at the south of Italy near the Sicilian coast.
I have my shoes … but we are still without the much needed charts! They are nowhere to be found in stock in Salerno! We just cannot leave without them!