Vinogradisce Bay and Stari Grad : the last Dalmatian Island stops


On our way to the restaurant
Loveley clouds over Vinogradisce Bay
Lovely clouds over Vinogradisce Bay
The view from our table at the restaurant in Vinogradisce
Restaurant Zori – a very classy restaurant with magic food and very professional waiters! A magic gastronomic evening!
Great fish and most professional waiter we had in Croatia! He knows his fish!
Restaurant Zori – a very classy restaurant with magic food and very professional waiters! A magic gastronomic evening!
Beautiful vineyards and olive groves on our way to Vinogradisce Bay
Beautiful vineyards and olive groves on our way to Vinogradisce Bay

Vinogradisce was one of the bays where we anchored and just stayed on board – we did not bother to go ashore seeing that all there is a small community with a few big restaurants … home cooking aboard was on the menu anyway! There were plenty of fish around. It was still too cold for a swim. Besides, the overcast weather never shows the true blue colour of water to become a temptation. The restaurants on the other hand was a temptation. We were hoping to be back as soon as Yvonne and her family were here – the restaurants do look very promising.

When we arrived, we were pretty much the third yacht in the bay and we anchored behind a massive private Catamaran, thinking they will have crew on board that will constantly watch the boat. It was a windless day and that is when anchoring becomes a problem. Yachts then start swinging any which way and not all in the same direction as is the case if there is a breeze of some sorts. That is when they tend to bump into each other. (The significance of the “private” yacht is that “charters “could not care less if there is a bump or not – not their problem and they are insured anyway! They are a species you try to avoid when anchoring or mooring where it is tight!)
By about 5pm more and more charter yachts were coming in, and for the next 2 hours, we were entertained by some seriously incompetent, unexperienced charterers trying to anchor but just could not figure out, that you need to anchor with your nose into the wind, and that you have to envision where you boat will be after you have let out the chain! Anchoring is a spectator’s sport – that is a well-known fact amongst sailors, but this was becoming a pretty reckless sport that night! By the time it was dark, we could not imagine that there could be space for one more boat … and yet … every now and then another light was heading for Vinogradisce!

The funniest was when the one charter yacht, re-anchored 5 times and woke us up with his anchor winch at 3 am trying to re-anchor for the 6th time! When we got up early that morning, he was so dangerously close to the rocks, that it is scary! Luckily they all have to have good insurance!

The second time with the Brands was a much different cattle of fish! We went ashore after Yvonne, Quinton and Gayle have done the “spy” work on all the restaurants menus to see which one we should go to! We ended up in Restaurant Zori – a very classy restaurant with magic food and very professional waiters! A magic gastronomic evening with the most awesome atmosphere and view from our table!

Stari Grad:
We were pleasantly surprised by the little town with its super low docks! If Scolamanzi would have been docked there, I am sure we would have find her doing sightseeing within no time on the promenade!
Some really old limestone stone buildings with some amazing architectural detailed ones and the semi modern building housing a school on the other side of town, are giving one the idea that it is a very normal town and not only a tourist hub. In fact it was not quite buzzing with tourists, but it had a charm of its own.
I was amazed by the exhibition of an artist that is a local! Amazing but very alternative work of art. I could not help to wonder how many hidden talents are in these little towns that still need their key to the bigger markets.
Although we did not go there for any other reason as to overnight somewhere save, we did see the very prominent mention in one of the restaurant magazines for a Restaurant called ERIMITA – without hesitation the cook on board was given the day off and restaurant Erimita had to be tested! Everyone was keen just because they have a traditional recipe other than seafood on the menu that was mention in the magazine: Wild Boar Stew! So it happened that we spend a wonderful evening once again around food, good local wine and great company! A lovely windless evening on the veranda overlooking the bay and the town’s lights over glassy waters made it all in all a wonderful evening for the memory bank!


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *