Stupica bay on the island Zirje … making our way to the Kornati Island

Stupica
Stupica Bay
Ruins of an Roman Castle on top of the hill
Ruins of an Roman Castle on top of the hill
Ruins on top of the hill at Stupica, Island Zirje
Ruins on top of the hill at Stupica, Island Zirje

Stupica bay on the island Zirje
After winds between 25-38 knots and a sliver of a genoa, reaching 9 knots boat speed, we found shelter in Stupica bay on the island Zirje, just short of the Kornati Islands. Waves from the side broke across the boat leaving Scolamanzi with a salty deck and swimming pool in the cockpit!

We have slept for an hour as soon as we arrived and hoped the very much deserted restaurant will be open today …advertising GRILL FISH WINE RESERVATIONS on a sign at the dingy dock! Hahah!!
I have sent Johann to investigate – seeing that there are ruins of a Roman castle on the top of the hill, he was just too happy to go!!

I was shivering in the boat with a cup of coffee in hand.How can it still be so cold at the end of May?? We have NO food to cook by now … I was getting ready to improvise with the last tin of tuna that is left, some frozen peas, a few potatoes and onions and odd bits of salad ingredients. It was just too cold to consider a salad at this stage!
(The story behind the food shortage: We were ready to stock up a very empty yacht at Split … the weather just did not let us,neither did it in Drvenik, where we did not even go ashore and in Stupica are no shops…so where and when the next opportunity will come around to stock up with protein – I have no idea!)

The houses at Konoba Stupica - A family owned small restaurant ... wonderf
The houses at Konoba Stupica – A family owned small restaurant … wonderf
We found a restaurant!!!
We found a restaurant!!! The best meal we had for the least money!! Brilliant BBQ fresh Sea Bream! Unpretentious and fantastic!
That was two perfectly BBQ fish! Lol!! Freeezing cold!!
That was two perfectly BBQ fish! Lol!! Freeezing cold!!

By the time Johann got back there seemed to be some movement around the restaurant (after the sixth boat has anchored in the bay) and my hopes were lightning up in anticipation for a good meal ashore!
We had delicious fresh fish on the coals with mash and salad … wholesome home cooked food by the family at the konoba!! The service and food and atmosphere were all very unpretentious and homely!

We ended up with 6 new “best friends” back on Scolamanzi for a coffee and a night cap (Sipping Rum) after dinner! (Until 12am!!) What a wonderful bunch of people – 2 couples from UK, Frank Godliuski from Stadtberen, Germany and Rebecca from Sydney! Thanks guys for your valuable information and the lovely book about Sailing Croatia and interesting liqueur Frank!!! (The book is in German and I will have to brush up on my German quick smart! Titel: “Kroatien, Slowenien and Montenegro : 808 Häfen & Buchten”)
Frank… it ended up being a life saver!!! We bought the English version (“777 Harbours and Anchorages of Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro, Albania” ) later on. It was of great help seeing that internet was pretty sporadic!! Hope to see you in Germany one day or in Australia at some stage soon!

One thought on “Stupica bay on the island Zirje … making our way to the Kornati Island”

  1. Hello

    I have visited konoba too and it was awsome. As you sad very homely and quite atmosphere. But do you have any contact to the konoba? I tried to find it but I couldn’t. Very appreciate your help!

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