TROGIR: A Small Island and a Delightful Little Town – The Stone Beauty


We arrived a couple of hours before sunset.( It is magic to have such long days when you are a tourist, with the sun setting early in June at around 9.20pm only ) Anchored in the bay near the big ship yard , the Fortress and Cathedral was clearly indicating that it will be another bag full of surprises to be investigated! We went to town straight away although it was already written into the itinerary to stay another day.

Trogir , it is said, is a city with 2300 years of tradition! The town of Trogir was founded by ancient Greeks settlers in the 3rd century BC. The town was separated by a trench/ canal from the mainland and became an island in medieval times to protect the town from the enemies such as those from the Ottoman Empire. Its colourful history moulded by ancient Greeks, Romans and Venetians has left them with some beautiful Romanesque churches, towers, a fortress and outstanding Renaissance and Baroque buildings from the Venetian period.

The Cathedral of St Lawrence
The Cathedral of St Lawrence
The impressive Romanesque front gate portal is a masterpiece by Radovan,
The impressive Romanesque front gate portal is a masterpiece by Radovan,
Amazing ceiling of this chapel - with God looking down, surrounded by angel faces
Amazing ceiling of this chapel – with God looking down, surrounded by angel faces

It is a fascinating place to just wander around. The wide seaside promenade with its restaurants makes for a very interesting spot to do people watching and see the gin palaces and tourist boats coming and going.

The tiny medieval cobble stone streets takes you around the compact town to even more hidden “knobas” (small family restaurants). They every now and then surprise you with a 13 -17th century town square, family palace, church or cathedral! With the whole old town being a UNESCO world heritage site, the history of any building of significance is written in English on a plaque outside the entrances. It takes you through the history and we just loved wandering back in time!

Wonderful art work and sculpturing on the sides and ceiling of the chapel! All done in marble with the coffin of St John, the patron saint of Trogir in the middle guarded by angels
Wonderful art work and sculpturing on the sides and ceiling of the chapel! All done in marble with the coffin of St John, the patron saint of Trogir in the middle guarded by angels
The eastern aspect of the Cathedral of St Lawrence
The eastern aspect of the Cathedral of St Lawrence
On the two columns around the portal we can see effigies of apostles, fantastic creatures and scenes of daily life of people of the time.
On the two columns around the portal we can see effigies of apostles, fantastic creatures and scenes of daily life of people of the time.

Trogir is known to be the best-preserved Romanesque-Gothic complex in all of Central Europe.
The spectacular Venetian Cathedral of St. Lovro /Lawrence, a 15th-century town hall, the Church of St. John the Baptist with its gorgeous carved portal are only a few of the well-known spectacular sites in town.

My favourite, the Cathedral of St Lawrence, took 300 years to complete with construction started in the 1200’s and is dominating the main square. The impressive Romanesque front gate portal is a masterpiece by Radovan, and the most significant work of the Romanesque-Gothic style in Croatia. It certainly captured us, staring at the immense detail of the sculptures and trying to read the artist story in them. Inside, the chapel kept us captivated for quite some time as well. The outstanding ceiling artwork with a sculpture representing God, looking down on us is pretty unique. In middle of the chapel is the coffin of St. John, the patron saint of Trogir and the three dimensional sculptures of the Twelve Apostles on the walls all around the chapel is of outstanding quality. An exceptional collection of art.

Kamerlengo Fortress – a 14th century fortress

Kamerlengo Fortress

Trogir and its promenade as seen from the top of the fortress

Kamerlengo Fortress makes a great entrance to the Town from where we were anchored. And forms a lovely backdrop walking down the promenade at the waterfront. This 14th century fortress was built to control access to the harbor and the bay of Kastela. Walking on top of the walls of the fortress and going up to the top of the big tower rewards you with a spectacular view of the island and town.
The Town Clock above the church of St. Sebastian and the town Loggia

Japanese tourists taking a seat in the 15th century Loggia of Trogir

The city loggia from 15th century – The Loggia was built in 1311, but the current one is from the 15th century. It was used as a public gathering area and courtroom. This open courtroom served as a tribunal where all those who have violated the law were condemned, punished and disgraced in front of the fellow-citizens.
The wonderful cobbled stone streets of Trogir
Spiral stairs up in the bell tower of the cathedral
Croatian speciality: Black Rissoto at Konoba Tragos

We were all pretty tired after a full day in still pretty average weather, having had warm wet gear on all day with just enough of a break in the weather to make it possible to do everything we wanted. After having brought fresh fruit and veggies and basil (which I have been chasing ever since Dubrovnik!), we went back to Scolamanzi with the dingy, Scollie… the most beautiful blue tinted skies made for wonderful pictures as we left the town behind.

The island of Vis would be our next stop-over before heading north. Hopefully the winds will allow us some sailing to steady the boat for Mr Green! 🙂

Scolamanzi in the bay of Trogir: Bell tower view
The canel that has made Trogir an island since medieval times
Patterns of the Bell Tower
Patterns of the Bell Tower
Patterns of the bell tower
Patterns of the bell tower

Trogir is only 25 km (30 minutes by car) from the centre of Split. After we went out with dinner with Rosemary and Cal, I checked my emails and Facebook messages (as I do) before going to bed. I was so excited to see that friends of ours (Ross and Jo), were in Split and have the next day free!
We have missed them every time with just a day or two while we were in Croatia. Well, to tell you the truth, we have been missing each other for the last 6 years even though we are living in the same area with Ross always doing relief work for Johann when we are away sailing! The girls there and then, at 11 pm at night, made all the arrangements to pick them up at 7.30 am in Trogir, and have them on board sailing to the island Vis, where they will then take the ferry back to Split!
Scolamanzi at anchor in the bay of Trogir
Logo of Trogir
Trogir

We docked at the town dock of Vis and found it pretty interesting to have so much interaction happening on your doorstep! Privacy is limited
Our plan worked like a charm! It was so much fun having them on board and a few wines and a meal at a restaurant in Vis later, we sent them off on the Ferry. It ended up being a bit of a joke that we could not even manage to get together in Australia for the last 6 years, where we live all year round, but we’ve managed to do it in Croatia!

A visit out of the Blue!
Sailing all the way to Vis

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