Category Archives: Croatia

Lastovo Island: Kremina Bay and Luka Zaklopatica

Lastovo Island:

The warship bunker
The warship bunker

Kremina Bay:

Another very interesting bay where we have anchored just around the corner from where a massive warship bunker is. It was built during Communist times by General Tito, to hide war ships in. It is now used by yachts as a save mooring. Very eerie but impressive. This one was particularly big. We have often seen some that was smaller in size on the other islands. It makes for a perfect spot to hide away from stormy weather. the Customs Police visited us to check our boat and personal documents while at anchor. They are just the friendliest people in customs I have met so far! The whole process (checking on line with a slow internet connections and update all the info on their data base etc.) took a while and we had a bit of a chat to them. They gave us the detail about the back ground of the bunker and suggested to go and check it out. Johann tried to walk there, and later on came back to fetch me to explore it with the dinghy. It is impressive! I wish we have known about it! It would be awesome to spend a night in there! Maybe one day with Scolamanzi II ?

Luka Zaklopatica:

The lovely bay of Zaklopatica
The lovely bay of Zaklopatica

A lovely bay on the Island of Lastovo. We found a place at the dock of Konoba Triton (A konoba is a small family-owned restaurant, often with a very limited menu, but the service is mostly very personal and home cooking is always fabulous!)
It is a very cosy little bay, sheltered off from the ocean by a small island at the entrance of the bay, leaving it with only two smaller entrances. The wind was picking up – as it does this time of year (June) around midday. We were just too happy to get a spot, and being helped with the docking by the owner, his very handsome son a few of the locals that has been rounded up. One thing about a catemaran, is that it does make life slightly difficult as soon as there is a cross wind while docking!

Being under the impression that the dock will be free if you eat at the restaurant, we were set to go out for dinner! A lovely view from the table in the restaurant was to die for – looking right onto our boat and out over the bay. The food was delicious – freshly caught fish on the BBQ! Tell you what – I would not bother ordering the ugly looking Scorpion fish again – not all that tasty and the texture reminds me of tropical fish. Anyway – the local wine and all the other food were splendid!

It is only a small village (I have not seen a shop of any sorts around?) with about 8 konobas in the bay – all with their own docks. The rest of the town is made up of holiday dwellings – apparently most of them is built illegally. An early morning walk around town provided a wonderful view from the roof of the several unfinished houses. There is only one road going all the way around with small steps leading to the sea through every konoba and in between houses.
While we were getting ready to leave the next morning, it was so cute to see the restaurant offering nice steaming coffee and pastries for breakfast to the charter boats. I tried to avoid eye contact with the lovely old breakfast lady – last night’s bill still in mind… The bill had a little surprise built in for us …The docking was extra! 200kn extra! Luckily we had a litre of wine and hence in a very pleasant mood! 🙂

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KOBAS: as small but interesting village in the Stronki Kanal

At Kobas  - Johann securing Scolamanzi on the Restaurant's dock (restaurant in the back ground)
At Kobas – Johann securing Scolamanzi on the Restaurant’s dock (restaurant in the back ground)

KOBAS: a small place with only 5 houses on the water’s edge (and about that much more inland) and 3 restaurants in the Stonski Kanal (part of mainland Croatia). We docked onto the restaurant’s dock – it felt so strange to dock to a rickety jetty like that! It was awesome! Such an interesting community! The deal is you eat there, and you get the dock, water and electricity for free. I guess the dock fees are hidden in the food prices, but it was an amazing experience and a fabulous place to visit!
The olive press
The olive press
Massive Olive trees - about 350 -400 years old
Massive Olive trees – about 350 -400 years old

We took a walk up the hill to get a few shots of Scolamanzi in the little bay and in the process walked through pine and conifer forests, ancient olive groves and interesting vineyards to the other side of the island. On our way back, we discovered an olive press dating back to the 16th century. When asking the manager of the restaurant about it, he was very keen to unlock the doors and show and explain to us how the whole olive press is working – the magic was that they are still using the same gear that was used 500 years ago!

That night we had fresh muscles in a tomato-based sauce, flat oysters from Ston (where they are cultured) – the best oysters I have ever had! To die for! Those were starters. We have tried a carafe of their own red wine made there on that farm and a fresh bread and home-made olive oil with two of the most perfectly BBQ fish! Rugged but roaring with flavours! – It was a meal for a king! The olive oil got to me big time, and I had to go back after dinner to buy a litre of their own cold press olive oil for about $10. An gold award winning oil last year at the New York International Olive Oil Competition! It must have been for a delicate blend – it is delicious!

What a night! The people running the restaurant are as colourful! The one couple is taking care of all the food – We even watched how his wife went down to the water to clean the fish! So simple and fascinatingly wonderful!
The other couple are the entertainers … the husband (after way to many beers throughout the day while waiting for customers to dock and a few packets of cigarettes) served the tables (we were only 4 boats / tables) and his young wife has the looks …she looked so out of place with her sexy black number and long black hair – pretty and young with gel nails
and high heels … but she was at least the little flower in the desert as far as fashion and beauty is going.

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